Looking for Sakten

The 10 day trip to Merak and Sakteng was one of the best trekking and hiking experiences I have had in the mountains. Although I had to walk for almost 10 grueling hours every other day, the trip was worth it. Then someone rightly said: an affair is just a properly considered inconvenience. A downside is just an ill-considered adventure.

The gentle stroll along the gurgling river and the uphill climb through steep slopes in the Rocky Mountains, dotted with beautiful greenery all around, is indeed what defines the trip to Merak and Sakteng. But if you travel during the monsoon, prepare to face leeches. Just a note of caution. When you hit the highlands and breathe a sigh of relief, another test is waiting for it to happen.

Prepare for the ara session that the brokpas call dey chang, their way of receiving guests. There is no escape from dey chang, even if you are a teetotaler. They literally keep your mouth open and pour the ara into your mouth. It may sound rude or even brutal, but that is a culture that the Brokpas hold firmly to. So when you are in Merak or Sakteng, it is better to be a brokpa. The icing on the cake, especially for male visitors, is that the prettiest girls are selected to serve the guests. I woke up the next morning, still feeling dizzy from last night’s drink.

The serene atmosphere of the mountain, the sound of the wind and the song of the birds were like a natural balm for the hangover. Around seven in the morning, the fog recedes and gives way to the first rays of sun. It’s another day. At 4,300 meters above sea level and on the highest pass between Merak and Sakteng, overlooking conquered lands, I felt a surreal feeling as if I had reached the top of the world. The calm is broken by the human madness around, some worried about altitude sickness. And it can be quite scary. One of our teammates became ill and had to be moved to a lower altitude immediately. In addition to the arcane highland culture that is now open to tourism, one thing that struck me was the adorable Tibetan Mastiff puppies. Sale of snow-white puppies. There was almost an argument about who would buy the dogs, as there were only two best puppies that everyone wanted and 13 of us competing for the best. Then an auction was held.

I withdrew from the auction because I realized that I could not have taken care of the dog by myself in my two-bedroom apartment. Two of them took the cubs and even named one Sakteng. Walking back with satisfaction in my life and a sense of accomplishment, the bummer was that we lost Sakteng by the time we reached the point of the road. Sakteng, the dog. We went looking for him everywhere, but to no avail. The dog’s owner even called a shaman in his village to find out if they could find Sakteng. However, it was to no avail. It is a mystery with which we return. For once I thought it was sinister; Did it mean something of this world that is not yet ready to open? Maybe I was being too superstitious, but the idea haunted me for a while. I came home thinking of the two Sakteng!

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